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How much power do I need?
What specs should I look at when shopping for a receiver?
If I'm only interested in music, am I wasting my money buying a receiver with Dolby Digital or other surround decoding?
What's the big deal about Dolby Pro Logic II? Isn't Dolby Digital better?
If the receiver I want doesn't have a dedicated subwoofer output, can I still hook up a subwoofer?
Can I use the "B" speaker outputs on a stereo receiver for surround sound?
When I run "A" and "B" speakers at the same time, how much power will go to each speaker?
How is a dual-room/dual-source receiver different than a receiver with "A" and "B" speaker outputs?
How many speakers total can I connect to my receiver?
Do all receivers have inputs and outputs for connecting my external equalizer?

Q: How much power do I need?
A: In general, the louder you like to listen, the larger your room, and the less efficient your speakers are, the more power you need. As you shop for receivers, however, keep in mind that even if you don't listen loud, you may still want a more powerful amplifier. In fact, the biggest benefit of higher power isn't volume, it's increased dynamics and improved sound quality.

Another important factor to remember is that not all receiver wattage ratings are directly comparable. Pay particular attention to the range of frequencies, or bandwidth, listed next to the receiver's power rating. For audio components, "full bandwidth" is considered the entire frequency range of human hearing — 20-20,000 Hz.

Full-bandwidth power ratings are a more conservative measure of power than ratings derived using a narrower range of frequencies. So a receiver that delivers 100 watts per channel at 20-20,000 Hz is actually more powerful than one that delivers 100 watts per channel at 40-20,000 Hz.

Note that some home theater receivers list full-bandwidth rated wattage for stereo operation, but do not specify bandwidth for their 5-channel home theater modes. For such receivers, you should assume that the 5-channel wattage is not full-bandwidth rated.
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Q: What specs should I look at when shopping for a receiver?
A: Although all specifications can be technically important, they most likely aren't all equally important to you. Concentrate on the specs and features that will affect your enjoyment the most. For example, if you never listen to the radio, why worry about tuner specs?

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Q: I'm interested in music, not home theater. Am I wasting my money buying a receiver with Dolby Digital and other types of surround decoding?
A: If the receiver has everything you're looking for in terms of quantity and quality of power, inputs and outputs for connecting all your components, convenience features, and price, then it's definitely not a waste of money.

Home theater's popularity has resulted in more and more receivers (even inexpensive models) that include Dolby Digital processing. Since the surround sound decoder only accounts for a relatively small percentage of the cost, don't avoid a receiver that's perfect for you in every other way.

Additionally, the multichannel capabilities of a home theater receiver can offer benefits even to the hardcore music-only fan. Two up-and-coming high-resolution audio formats, SACD and DVD-Audio, are capable of delivering audio in the same 5.1-channel speaker configuration employed by Dolby Digital. A stereo receiver won't let you enjoy such discs in their full multichannel glory, but a home theater receiver equipped with a 5.1-channel input will!
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Q: Why are a lot of newer Dolby Digital receivers touted as having Dolby Pro Logic II processing? Doesn't Dolby Digital decoding leave Pro Logic in the dust?
A: Dolby Digital is a much more advanced surround technology than Dolby Pro Logic, yes, but it's only available on DVDs, HDTV broadcasts, and some digital satellite programs and video games. Dolby Pro Logic II is designed to help you get more convincing multichannel sound from Dolby Surround-encoded soundtracks, like those found on many VHS tapes and stereo television broadcasts.

Dolby Pro Logic processing provides 4 channels of sound — front left, center, front right, and a limited-bandwidth, mono surround channel. Apply Pro Logic II processing to the same Dolby Surround source, though, and you'll enjoy 5.1-channel sound, including full-bandwidth, stereo surrounds and a subwoofer channel. It's a great way to get crisper, more three-dimensional sound out of older surround sources. Pro Logic II can even transform stereo music into exciting multichannel sound.
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Q: If the receiver I want doesn't have a dedicated subwoofer output, can I still hook up a subwoofer?
A: Yes, as long as the subwoofer has speaker-level inputs and outputs. You can hook up this type of subwoofer in line between your receiver and main stereo speakers. Run one set of speaker wires from the receiver's "A" speaker outputs to the subwoofer, and then run another set of speaker wires from the subwoofer to your main stereo speakers.

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Q: Can I use the "B" speaker outputs on a stereo receiver for surround sound?
A: Definitely not. Your receiver's "B" speaker outputs provide the exact same stereo signal as its "A" speaker outputs. (The "B" speaker outputs are useful for connecting a second pair of stereo speakers for some other area in or around the house.)

Surround sound, on the other hand, consists of multiple audio channels, which carry different portions of a soundtrack. These channels must be decoded by a multichannel surround sound processor.

Q: When I run "A" and "B" speakers at the same time, how much power will go to each speaker?
A: That depends on whether the receiver's outputs are wired in series or parallel. If wired in series, your total power decreases by about half when you switch from "A" to "A+B." Four speakers then share this lower output. Your overall volume will decrease, but impedance will increase so the amp runs cooler and is less likely to overheat.

If wired in parallel, your total power is somewhat increased when you switch from "A" to "A+B" because the amplifier is presented with a lower impedance (ohm load). Four speakers then share this higher output. (Be aware that when an amplifier is presented with a lower impedance, it tends to run hotter and produce more distortion.)

Note: Some receivers only offer output for one set of speakers. And some that do have two sets of outputs don't offer an "A+B" option because they are only equipped to power one set of speakers at a time.
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Q: How is a dual-room/dual-source receiver different than a receiver with "A" and "B" speaker outputs?
A: There are two main differences. The first is that dual-room/dual-source receivers allow you to send signals from different sources to each room. For example, you can enjoy home theater thrills from a DVD in your main listening room while a housemate listens to a favorite CD in the second room. Note that these receivers can only send stereo signals to the second room, not multichannel home theater sound.

The second difference is that dual-room/dual-source receivers usually do not power a second set of speakers. In most cases, they feature preamp-level outputs for the second room that require an additional receiver, amplifier, or a set of powered speakers in your remote listening area. However, if a dual-room/dual source receiver is described as having powered outputs for the second room, then all you'll need for your second room is a set of speakers.
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Q: How many speakers total can I connect to my receiver?
A: Any home theater receiver allows you to connect a minimum of five speakers, including a front left and right pair, a center channel speaker, and a surround pair. You can always add a subwoofer if desired. Some advanced receivers allow you to connect an additional one or two "back surround" speaker(s) for use with 6.1-channel sources such as DTS-ES or Dolby Digital EX-encoded DVDs.

For stereo listening, you can connect an "A" pair for the room where the stereo is located, and a "B" pair for another room (as long as your receiver has two sets of main speaker outputs). Hooking up even more pairs of stereo speakers is possible, but it requires an external speaker selector that both provides more speaker outputs and protects the receiver against low impedance loads.

Tip: Many receivers will not let you run the "B" and surround speaker outputs simultaneously.
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Q: Do all receivers have inputs and outputs for connecting my external equalizer?
A: No. To enable use with all of your A/V components, EQs (and other external sound processors) require that the audio signal flow out of the receiver, through the equalizer, then back into the receiver before it's amplified and sent to your speakers. To add an equalizer to your system, you'll need a receiver with either a tape monitor loop or a preamp-level output/main-in loop. Look for a front-panel button on your receiver labelled "Tape Monitor," or preamp-out/main-in jacks on the back panel to make sure a graphic EQ will work with your system.

If your receiver doesn't have a tape monitor or preamp-in/main-out loop, you can still connect a graphic EQ for use with one specific component in your system. If you want to use the EQ with a cassette deck, for example, just connect your cassette deck's output to the EQ's input, and the EQ's output to the tape input on the back panel of your receiver. You'll then be able to equalize the sound of any tape you play.

Tip: Avoid using your equalizer on Dolby Surround-encoded sound. Equalizing a Dolby-encoded signal throws off the frequency balance and your surround decoder's steering.
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